New car paint treatment

Hello,

Im new to LL/RR. What would be the recommended new car treatment for the paint?

Over here in Sweden we have companies like Ditec and Mr CAP that do new car treatment programs.

Just wanted to hear what you more experienced LL/RR owners recommend?

Also interested in recommended leather treatments for the interior?

Many thanks in advance for all good advice,

"Hybris"

This is the first LR out of the 8 I have owned in the last 16 years that I have had any paint treatment done on, you don't need it. I had it done as I have gone for a white car and wanted to see if the system I have gone for is actually worth it after 3 years use.

I agree, waste of money. Best thing to do is to wash the car regularly, especially the wheels and, twice a year, use a good polish like Autoglym to help water/dirt bead and run-off. I think anything more is a bit obsessional though you will find me keeping the exhaust finishers clean - just a wipe when they are hot is all it takes.

As for leather, try to prevent it getting dirty in the first place and use a leather cleaner/feed on the surfaces which wear - seat facings, especially side bolsters, door grabs and steering wheel to stop it from drying out.

My aussie dealer is also offering electronic rust prevention for the evoque. I am not sure if this is needed. Anybody any experience?

Maarten, not necessary, the body is fully treated at the building stage with an electrolytically applied "galvanising" type treatment - if you want extra then the best thing to do is get the car up on a hoist and apply the traditional Land Rover corrosion inhibiter Finigan's Waxoyl.

Isn't it amazing what dealers will try to get you to sign up to. Forget the rust treament, I've seen the zinc coated rolls of steel from which the body is pressed and even though the pressing operation leaves raw steel exposed, it's covered in a galvanising treatment prior to painting.

LR go to significant lengths to prevent rusting and electrolytic action between steel and aluminium. For example, they weld more than 100 copper studs each side onto which are pressed plastic fixings to hold things in position. For example, the brake pipes running front to rear are offered up to a channel in the underside of the floor pan and 3 or 4 fixings holding the pipes apart and in position are simply pressed onto the studs. This is faster and better than using self-tapping screws which would cut their way through the galvanising and open the door to corrosion.

If you are going to drive the car in salt water, it will obviously make sense to hose down the underside from time to time.

Thanks guys. Yes, dealers are trying everything to get you signup for a lot of extras. Good to have a forum like this one.

Sorry, when I saw the title I thought you were referring to the buying process...and delays

To take the ache out of it then daigriff I have edited the title!

Thanks Tim. I've accepted the delays now and am looking forward to getting the car. Glad you are enjoying yours.