mobil1 or castro

(04-09-2013 05:57am)donot521 Wrote:  mobil1 or castro

Fidel or Raúl?

(05-09-2013 07:19pm)XFullFatTim Wrote:  Donot, you can use any synthetic oil that complies with the spec LR has put in the owners manual, but honestly, your car really will go the distance without an oil change unless you are driving in the Arctic or the Desert or always crawling in stop start city traffic when you will find that LR does recommend more frequent changes.

Mobil 1 5W30 does not meet the spec that LR has put in the owners manual, BUT there is no oil in the United States (and probably Canada) that I can find that does meet this spec. The Ford oil spec that LR references in the manual is a UK specific specification. North American branded oils are not advertised to meet this spec. This kind of puts the US/Canadian owners in a bit of a bind when trying to keep their cars in warranty. My personal belief is that Mobil 1 would be fine. It's a full synthetic and it is the brand recommended by Porsche and what I use in my newer, water-cooled Porsches. I plan to call the dealer though to get their feedback. Maybe they will tell me what they use.

As for frequency of oil changes - I think the FIRST oil change should be done within 500 to 1,000 miles NOT 10,000 miles as recommended by LR. This is kind of the accepted standard for new engines. During the engine assembly process you may get contamination in the engine (assembly is not really done in a "clean room" environment). Parts may also be dirty and have casting flash. Machine work may leave debris in the engine as well. It's generally accepted then that after 500 to 1,000 miles you do your first oil change to get any of this assembly debris out of the oil filter and out of the sump. I know that a couple vehicles I've bought new came with this recommendation in the owner's manual! I've almost got 1,000 miles on my Evoque and have the LR oil filter on order. I just need to figure out if I can use Mobil 1 or not.

After that initial oil change I believe it would be fine to go 10,000 miles or once a year between oil changes.

Kirk

Update - I called a few U.S. Land Rover dealers. I found one was using 5W-20 spec oil for earlier Land Rovers. But that's not what's recommended for the Evoque! I've seen this in other posts - be informed and ask what your dealer is using, should be 5W-30. Two dealers I found are using Castrol Edge Professional A5 5W-30. They say they import it from the UK. This does indeed seem to be the OE fill oil from Jaguar/Land Rover. Unfortunately I can't find it anywhere (even Amazon and eBay) in the U.S. So, I sent an e-mail to LR USA to ask what they recommend for an off-the-shelf oil in the U.S. I know what they'll say though - go buy it from your dealer. My local dealer wants $11.80/quart. That seems a bit crazy, but the comparable Castrol Edge Titanium (their "best" US spec oil) is about $10/qt. Still high compared to my standard of Mobil 1 at $5/qt (Wal-mart 5 qt jugs).

Most U.S. oils seem to meet the Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec, which I believe is superior to the 913-C spec, but without comparing the actual specifications side to side (Ford wants $30 each for the specs) it's hard to tell.

The search continues... Maybe I'll just buy the expensive stuff from the dealer until my warranty is done and then switch to Mobil 1. Capacity is 5 qts, so you're looking at ~$66 with filter for a DIY oil change. I can live with that.

Kirk

This is a Ford engine. I'm in the U.S. and own a gasoline 2.0 Evoque Any major name brand full synthetic will work as long as its the correct 5W30 weight. Use a premium long distance oil filter such as FoMoCo's best Motorcraft, K&N (I like these because the nut on the housing top makes it easy to remove and install to the correct torque.) or the Mobil 1 filter. I changed my original oil at 3,000 miles. There was a very noticeable difference in the more oily feel of the new oil compared to the watery feel of the old (both old and new at the same outdoor temp.) I plan to change the oil at 6000 mi interludes, considering the turbo motor. I don't trust garages or a dealership. When I do the change I know for certain what quality of oil and filter is actually used.

I hear what you are saying. I don't trust garages or dealerships either! I am obsessing about using the OEM oil simply because of the warranty. LR is pretty clear that they spec a Ford WSS-M2C913-B oil. These SUVs are damn expensive to fix and I just don't want to have the potential of having a warranty claim denied because I used non-LR spec oil or filters. Once out of warranty I will use Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N filter.

Kirk

Kirk, I don't know if they are still in business but you could try a UK company called Opie Oils who used to sponsor most of Martin's forums - they are (were??) a specialist oil supplier. Not sure what their web address is or even if they are still in business but you should find them on the UK branch of a well known spy network/ internet search engine............

(04-01-2014 05:32pm)XFullFatTim Wrote:  Kirk, I don't know if they are still in business but you could try a UK company called Opie Oils who used to sponsor most of Martin's forums - they are (were??) a specialist oil supplier. Not sure what their web address is or even if they are still in business but you should find them on the UK branch of a well known spy network/ internet search engine............

Ive just bought my service oil from Opie so they are still going

http://Www.opieoils.co.uk

(04-01-2014 05:51pm)cjfp Wrote:  Ive just bought my service oil from Opie so they are still going

http://Www.opieoils.co.uk

So did I. I bought Castrol Magnatec which is fully synthetic and 913C compatible and the dealer was happy to use it. At the same time, I bought Mobil One (0W40 IIRC) for my 911 and the (different) dealer was happy to use that as well. If you are buying the oil for the dealer to use, just be sure you give it to them in sealed containers so there's no issue of contamination.

As for the comments about swarf in the engine, that poster has obviously never seen a Porsche engine being built (or an AMG one which is even more impressive). These days, there's little to be gained by doing more frequent oil changes because the quality of the oil and precision of the engine mean it's simply not needed.

As anticipated, this is the response that I got from Land Rover North America:

"I appreciate your inquiry. We can only recommend the oil listed in your owner's manual. We do not have any recommendations on other oils that can be used on your vehicle. You can certainly consult with the parts department at your local Land Rover dealer to see if they can order the proper oil for you. I apologize for any inconvenience."

So, to stay in compliance with the warranty, it looks like I'll be buying WSS-M2C913-B spec oil from the LR dealer (and paying 20% too much). Not a big deal though, I only need to do this once a year until the warranty is done.

Opie is indeed a good option, but not for North American owners. You'll pay as much in shipping as you will for the oil!

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(06-01-2014 07:11pm)mark_n Wrote:  As for the comments about swarf in the engine, that poster has obviously never seen a Porsche engine being built (or an AMG one which is even more impressive). These days, there's little to be gained by doing more frequent oil changes because the quality of the oil and precision of the engine mean it's simply not needed.

Regardless of how precisely the parts are made and assembled the metal parts will wear against each other during the break-in period creating metal debris in the oil. There are a lot of opinions about this subject - when should you do your FIRST oil change, and I am only referring to the first oil change or two - basically after the break-in period.

Of these opinions I'll listen more carefully to what the folks who have broken in hundreds of new engines say. These guys at Popular Mechanics and Power News magazines are saying to change the oil after 20 miles and 1,000 miles, then normally after that!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how...-a-new-car

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Again, lots of opinions, but very few of them are expert opinions based on extensive experience. When those experts are pretty harmonious about doing early oil changes at 20 and 1,000 miles, well then I listen.

Kirk

The whole point of the oil is so that the metal parts do not wear against each other. The days are long gone when a special low viscosity oil was needed for the early life of the engine. Racing the engine when it's cold will do far more damage than will be avoided by keeping to standard oil changes. The recommendation to change oil early is just playing to yours and other's anxieties.