Still trying to figure factory HID upgrade!

(30-11-2014 10:15pm)bee Wrote:  kuga, im relying on you to sort out this problem.

Ha ha!

I know what needs to be done....in theory its very simple. Its just a case of tracking down the right connections for the ballast and then trying to get a wiring diagram to see if there is a permanent live running into the light. If not, it might mean running a cable all the way back to the battery.

Ideally, I will find a 30 amp line somewhere nearer the lights and use this to power them from the relay......

I will get there.....eventually!

I recently bought a set of 17 inch wheels new with Dunlop tyres. The man gave me xenon light units at a reasonable price and told me it's a plug and play exercise and that he has done it before. Yesterday I spoke to my dealer's mechanic... great surprise... it's not possible for a MY14 Pure he told me unless you replace the loom and a lot more. In addition you will need auto levelling system and power wash to be legal.

As I would like to fit the signature lights my question is how difficult it is to fit halogen lights into a xenon light unit.
As a result of the poor light output I fitted a few month ago GP Thunder 9005 bulbs which perform a little better.
In so far I will follow the thread with great interest.

The mechanic also told me that the Evoque Pure harness was changed at MY14 1/2 providing connections for the levelling device and xenon lights... Does anyone knows about this....

Well, Ive got a MY15 Evoque and when I plugged in my xenons they did not work....

They flash on for a second then go off.

Have you tried to put a relay for the cut of light?.

This is what you need to convert halogen to xenon

2 x Range rover OEM Xenon headlights with Osram ballasts
2 x Sets of connectors http://www.motorcyclestorehouse.nl/keyword/548258 (you will have one spare mating connector)
1 x HB4/9006 harness like this http://www.theretrofitsource.com/compone...QxdGPnke-0
3 x short HB4 extension cables, you will need to refit the relevant connectors on these so 2 feed the ballasts and 1 feeds the harness trigger wire.

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(20-03-2015 06:54pm)funguf Wrote:  This is what you need to convert halogen to xenon

2 x Range rover OEM Xenon headlights with Osram ballasts
2 x Sets of connectors http://www.motorcyclestorehouse.nl/keyword/548258 (you will have one spare mating connector)
1 x HB4/9006 harness like this http://www.theretrofitsource.com/compone...QxdGPnke-0
3 x short HB4 extension cables, you will need to refit the relevant connectors on these so 2 feed the ballasts and 1 feeds the harness trigger wire.

You can probably source the connectors from ebay, I did

I was looking for a way to do this without having to run a live cable from the battery to the headlight.....

Is there a permanent live near the headlight that can be used?

(20-03-2015 09:35pm)Kugaman1 Wrote:  I was looking for a way to do this without having to run a live cable from the battery to the headlight.....

Is there a permanent live near the headlight that can be used?

in my opinion, there must bee a simple way to retrofit the xenons. im surprised that some electronic whiz kid has not got a solution for it.
so I recon im just going to stay with my stock halogens until I replace my bee. the next evo will have all mod cons. still cannot believe manufacturers are still fitting halogen headlights.

On the Adaptive xenon system, the dipped beams are driven from a 21Amp Max FET (BTS443) in the Central Junction Box and the diagram shows 55 Watts for each dipped beam.

There is no 12 V supply going directly to the light unit itself.

Unfortunately I don't have any info for the Halogen installation to know if there is a different output driver to the dipped beam.

Have you checked the Xenons stay on if linked directly to a battery supply (preferably fused), to be sure the light unit you have is working?

Yes, tried the xenons directly with a battery live, they are fine.

Many other drivers have had the same issue as me, the xenons light up for a second and then go off. I believe the car sees the large initial current draw of the ballast and thinks theres a problem so shuts the light down. Thats the issue that I need to find a way to overcome......

I think the only option is a relay switched permanent live to overcome this issue. Hiwever, I really dont want to run a permanent live all the way from the battery round to the headlights....