paint and plastic protection

(26-10-2011 07:37am)XFullFatTim Wrote:  So what's wrong with an old rag and some washing-up liquid stolen from the missus? works fine for 99% of the population and you get a lot of Squeezy for the price of most of the chemicals you guys are using...........

I have been blissfully unaware this much self harm was available over your paintwork, Car shampoo and occasional wax has been my lot... car still looks showroom condition! which I guess doesn't come close to you lot! I have a lot to learn...

(26-10-2011 01:41pm)Rootsboy Wrote:  Looks like all good information coming in. yes i forgot to say am already using the 2 bucket method, so all good there.
Iain a question after trying to do all the polishing by hand on my current car, i have come to the conclusion that its quite a lot of hard work on the old arms. so am also about to buy a polisher, this one i think...

http://www.carcarepassion.com/epages/615...s/KES-DAS6

could you advise in what would be the best pads to buy to get me started??

Rootsboy, there is a newer version of the DAS -6 DA polisher with 850 Watts instead of 550 for a few £ more:-
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-...d_673.html

Sorry - happy to be labelled as stupid - whats is detailing and whats the difference between cleaning and waxing with say for example a good Autogyln wax or the like.

I feel I'm missing something fundamental here.

Thanks.

Detailing is a term that originated in the US I think and describes an in depth wash, surface preparation, waxing and protection of a car to get it as close to perfect as possible. There are many levels right up to the OCD extreme where items are literally removed and cleaned with a toothbrush. It's become more popular in recent years as the internet has helped people to share techniques and obtain a wide range of special products whereas in years gone by the best most people who wanted to keep their car tidy could do was to visit Halfords for shampoo, polish etc.

Modern water based paint finishes are harder to look after than the old lead based paints which were fairly tough and durable. Most cars now have a clear laquer coat on the surface of the paint which scratches quite easily if washed incorrectly. Over a period of time this becomes apparent in bright sunlight as you'll see fine swirl marks or hazing across the surface of the paint. Washing your car with something like a splash of fairy liquid in a bucket of water will strip away any wax/polish protection you have on the car as these types of detergents are mildly abrasive. Once you strip away the protection you start to get the swirls and scratches.

A proper "detail" of the cars paintwork can rectfy these issues and return it to better than showroom condition if done properly. A quick wash and wax using something like Turtle Wax or Autoglym Super Resin Polish merely hides the scratches temporarily as these waxes are designed to fill the tiny scratches and make them invisible. After another couple of washes you will find them returning as you have simply washed the wax off. By machine polishing the surface of the laquer you are effectively gently smoothing it to a flat, glass like finish. Once it is then treated with a good carnuba wax as a barrier against the weather and traffic film your paint will stay in great condition unlss you wash it again using a poor technique which scratches it or with a detergent that strips the wax off.

Thanks IainS for the comprehensive explanation, there's a whole world out there to explore, I experienced Lead based painted cars which were indeed so much tougher! It all started for me when one of my guys recommended I wax my wheels when I get the car while they're still fresh. My reaction was "Wax My Wheels...!!? ", but if it stops brake dust corrosion then makes sense... I guess! if time (or cash for someone else) available.

Might just order myself some of that poorboys wheel sealer stuff and be ready to get waxing...

PhilSkill, you may want to try this product instead. Watch the video. G techniq products are very impressive!

http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/ext...el-armour/

Here is a good demonstration of how paintwork treated properly and given a coat of G techniq C1 repells water for anyone not convinced by the merits of treating your paintwork. If water doesn't stick neither does the dirt in it so you car stays cleaner for longer even after driving through rain. The fact the water beads and runs off so easily also makes drying the car simple after you have washed it as there is far less water to remove. Just dry it with a microfibre drying towel NOT a chamois of any kind (real or synthetic) as they simply strip the coating away.

(26-10-2011 05:49pm)Iain S Wrote:  Detailing is a term that originated in the US I think and describes an in depth wash, surface preparation, waxing and protection of a car to get it as close to perfect as possible. There are many levels right up to the OCD extreme where items are literally removed and cleaned with a toothbrush. It's become more popular in recent years as the internet has helped people to share techniques and obtain a wide range of special products whereas in years gone by the best most people who wanted to keep their car tidy could do was to visit Halfords for shampoo, polish etc.

Modern water based paint finishes are harder to look after than the old lead based paints which were fairly tough and durable. Most cars now have a clear laquer coat on the surface of the paint which scratches quite easily if washed incorrectly. Over a period of time this becomes apparent in bright sunlight as you'll see fine swirl marks or hazing across the surface of the paint. Washing your car with something like a splash of fairy liquid in a bucket of water will strip away any wax/polish protection you have on the car as these types of detergents are mildly abrasive. Once you strip away the protection you start to get the swirls and scratches.

A proper "detail" of the cars paintwork can rectfy these issues and return it to better than showroom condition if done properly. A quick wash and wax using something like Turtle Wax or Autoglym Super Resin Polish merely hides the scratches temporarily as these waxes are designed to fill the tiny scratches and make them invisible. After another couple of washes you will find them returning as you have simply washed the wax off. By machine polishing the surface of the laquer you are effectively gently smoothing it to a flat, glass like finish. Once it is then treated with a good carnuba wax as a barrier against the weather and traffic film your paint will stay in great condition unlss you wash it again using a poor technique which scratches it or with a detergent that strips the wax off.

Wow - now i understand - appreciate the very clear and detailed reply - many thanks!! Now for some research on what I need to start !!

Fascinating…. but seems to me like the kind of thing I'd rather pay someone else to do.

(26-10-2011 06:24pm)Iain S Wrote:  PhilSkill, you may want to try this product instead. Watch the video. G techniq products are very impressive!

http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/ext...el-armour/

Thanks IainS looks interesting and easier than waxing, I guess you'd need a cleaner to get the manufacturing oils and who knows what the dealer may have applied, before you add that stuff?

You just need to go over the paintwork with a a product like Swisswax Cleaner Fluid Regular http://www.swissvax.co.uk/product_detail...ar_100ml_2 on an applicator pad then buff it off with a microfibre cloth. That will remove any polish or wax from the surface and then you can apply the G tecniq C2.