TOWBAR GUIDE as at 27/08/12 (already on version 2!)

A few days ago I had an original LR to say Thule tow bar fitted to my car. It's a purchase from Duckworth and I think in case of a a new car it was for me the best way to go.
The bar was fitted by my local dealer at a reasonable price and even with the cutting of the central bumper panel it does not disturb the look of the rear end, this of cause when the hook is removed.

Contrary to what is mentioned before I was advised that the towbar has to be booked into the electronic circuit to act on the sensors and to control all the trailer lights and their feedback.

The mechanic also informed me that they are not keen to accept non LR looms as most connectors have to be modified/replaced in accordance with the car model and available pins.

When you connect a trailer to the stock harness via a harness adapter, the car can tell because of the resistance in the lighting circuit. You don't need anything else. This is also why you can't use trailers with LED lights - there's not enough resistance in the circuit to allow it to be sensed. Here in the US the Curt aftermarket harness just plugs right in with zero modification.

(08-07-2014 05:39am)chrisell Wrote:  When you connect a trailer to the stock harness via a harness adapter, the car can tell because of the resistance in the lighting circuit. You don't need anything else. This is also why you can't use trailers with LED lights - there's not enough resistance in the circuit to allow it to be sensed. Here in the US the Curt aftermarket harness just plugs right in with zero modification.

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Chris I think there is more involved than sensing the light circuit. The adapter you speek about is probably only to adapt the 9 pin to a 13 pin connector.

I did read the manual carefully and as far as I could make out, the electronics also act on the rear camera and sensors as an aid to attach the trailer as well as to follow the track of the trailer when reversing.
A special trailer sticker is available, it enables to focus it's track/position in relation to the the camera and front wheels.
So a little more than sensing the light current.

Jean

Maybe but there's two plugs under the car. The smaller of the two is a 9pin plug but it only has 4 connections in it on the factory side. The other 5 are blanks. That's the one I used with the Curt harness and it works great. The Curt harness has the matching 9 pin plug with 4 wired pins on one end and a US style flat 4 pin connector on the other. Backup sensors are disabled, backup camera has the trailer option enabled (the alignment marks). And when I use the indicators I get a blinking trailer symbol on the dash indicating the lights are working. The other connector under the car is a full 13 pin connector with all pins wired. I didn't used that one.

(09-07-2014 05:32am)chrisell Wrote:  Maybe but there's two plugs under the car. The smaller of the two is a 9pin plug but it only has 4 connections in it on the factory side. The other 5 are blanks. That's the one I used with the Curt harness and it works great. The Curt harness has the matching 9 pin plug with 4 wired pins on one end and a US style flat 4 pin connector on the other. Backup sensors are disabled, backup camera has the trailer option enabled (the alignment marks). And when I use the indicators I get a blinking trailer symbol on the dash indicating the lights are working. The other connector under the car is a full 13 pin connector with all pins wired. I didn't used that one.

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Chris it could well be that on the U.S. spec cars the software is enabled by the factory for trailer towing.
My car is an ECO diesel, and has not many extras in that direction.
I can only say what was told to me by the dealer and whats in the manual.
Anyhow in my case the bar is mainly for a bike rack, trailers are not my part.
Jean

Just completed the install of the Curt 13128 purchased from Amazon for $126 (Prime so shipping was free). Had to trim about 4" from either side of the heatshield but didn't need to trim the bumper fascia. Only issues were removing the exhaust hangers (bit of a pain) and the fact that the "long bolt" on the driver's side bottomed out before being fully snug. Couple of washers took care of it. Total time about 1 hr. Very pleased with the result. Didn't do the hiring harness at this time as I only want to haul bikes. Looks great and overall an easy install with the help of a buddy who had all the tools. Note: the 30 Torx heatshield screws can also be removed with a flat head screwdriver, but it would be a lot harder to do so.
Hope this helps someone!
   

Was quoted £1031 by my LR dealer today for parts & fitting of the LR detachable tow & electrics. All I want it for is to carry my bike so will be looking at other options. Anyone any experience of tow bar fitters in the Guildford, Surrey area?

All is quiet on this front. I have been looking for a package which 1. does not require cutting and 2. allows for the bar/ball to be removed without the rest being visible. 100% cannot get here in Australia but was hoping to get from overseas to fit.

Well just gone a fitted a tow trust Detachable Vertical Swan neck of eBay £247 free delivery. dedicated 13pin socket VPLHT0061 £107 inc Vat & delivered from Tim Fry Landrovers.

Fitted myself in about 2,1/2 Hrs well pleased with it, will get some picture later

Last week I had a Witter detachable swan neck tow bar (R44Q) and dedicated 13 pin electrics supplied and fitted by a local Witter dealer for £580. I was very apprehensive about how much of my Dynamic bumper they would have to cut, but I am pleased to say the cut is negligible and they made a very neat job. You can only see the cut from underneath. In the next day or 2 I'm going to Plastidip the silver bolts on either side, so they aren't so noticeable.

Paula