Brake issue range Rover Evque SD 2.2 2013

Hi All,

Changing the pads and rear disk due to excessive ware and I'm having a nightmare of a time.

tried to take the park brake off follwing process below:-

press hold brake relase 2 secs
press hold accelarator 2 secs
press engine off and back on.

Got one side done but for some reason manges to dislodge the entire brake cyclinder such theat i lost brake fluid. Took me an hour to get it all back together and not sure if I've got the inner cog the right way round. Also need to figure if the electronic brake is bled via the normal brake cylinder bleed nipple?

Any help most appreshated.

les.


Just belled the car via the normal bleeding nipple and while a large amount of aif was released I didn't have to top-up the brake fuid has mush as I know I lot whent he cyclinder came out of the brake caliper. This may be due to the fact the brakes were adjusted to there max position due to excessive pad ware and that now the cyclinder is pushed right back in there's less brake fluid need to drive it to a braking position. Any way the brake seems to work fine, the holding brake when parked I think is holding but i don't know if both sides are holding and I assume the only way I will know is to get the backend lift. I have now warning lights on so if somebody could confirm for me the following:-

1./Bleeding is done via the normal methos even on cars with Electric brakes.
2./the electronic brake is done not by pressure via brake fluid but by motor driven.
3./The little cog that screws onto the centre screw sindale inside the brake caliper, which way round does this go on, I'm assuming the wide cog end goes into the brake cyclinder and the norrow end screws onto the shaft inside the brake caliper.
4./ I have to do the other side I I want to know the correct way of getting the EB released, when released do I have to turn ther caliper brake shaft to wind it back into the base of the caliper or should the release of the EB have automatically wound the cyclinder back in making it easy to replace the brake pads?

many thanks

recon I will stick with a dealer for new brake pads.

Nope its fine if you are aware of what to do with the electronic brake. After posting this I found that the correct way is as follows:-

1./ Turn ignition on (don start car)
2./ Press the break release and keep it pressed while you do the next step. Breach release is done by pressing the button down and not pulling it up.
3./Now after 2 seconds in step 2 press down the accelerator, remember keep break release pressed at the same time.
4./ 2 seconds later press the start button so ignition goes off and press is again with no delay.
5./ Now let go of accelerator and release break.
6./ Wait 5 seconds and on the dash you will see the brake system has gone into maintenance mode and hence you can then swap the pads as normal.

Once done you repeat the process but instead of pressing the release brake switch down you pull it towards you but follows the rest of the process above. You will see that maintenance mode is then released.

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(11-12-2015 02:26pm)leshill1 Wrote:  Hi All,

Changing the pads and rear disk due to excessive ware and I'm having a nightmare of a time.

tried to take the park brake off follwing process below:-

press hold brake relase 2 secs
press hold accelarator 2 secs
press engine off and back on.

Got one side done but for some reason manges to dislodge the entire brake cyclinder such theat i lost brake fluid. Took me an hour to get it all back together and not sure if I've got the inner cog the right way round. Also need to figure if the electronic brake is bled via the normal brake cylinder bleed nipple?

Any help most appreshated.

les.


Just belled the car via the normal bleeding nipple and while a large amount of aif was released I didn't have to top-up the brake fuid has mush as I know I lot whent he cyclinder came out of the brake caliper. This may be due to the fact the brakes were adjusted to there max position due to excessive pad ware and that now the cyclinder is pushed right back in there's less brake fluid need to drive it to a braking position. Any way the brake seems to work fine, the holding brake when parked I think is holding but i don't know if both sides are holding and I assume the only way I will know is to get the backend lift. I have now warning lights on so if somebody could confirm for me the following:-

1./Bleeding is done via the normal methos even on cars with Electric brakes.
2./the electronic brake is done not by pressure via brake fluid but by motor driven.
3./The little cog that screws onto the centre screw sindale inside the brake caliper, which way round does this go on, I'm assuming the wide cog end goes into the brake cyclinder and the norrow end screws onto the shaft inside the brake caliper.
4./ I have to do the other side I I want to know the correct way of getting the EB released, when released do I have to turn ther caliper brake shaft to wind it back into the base of the caliper or should the release of the EB have automatically wound the cyclinder back in making it easy to replace the brake pads?

many thanks

I have just jacked the car up again and tested both rear wheels and it looks like the park brake is being applied to both sides correctly. Still need to make sure I have put the inner brake cylinder back correctly so please somebody confirm for me.

If you are not sure what I mean let me try and explain better.

The electronic park break is applied by what looks like a motor which turns a screw shaft on which there is a mushroom shaped attachment which seats into the brake cylinder such that when the motor gets power the attachment is moved towards the cylinder pushing is outwards thus applying pressure to the brake pads and stopping the wheels turning. Now the cog can be removed totally from the shaft thus its possible to go back on the shaft in two possible ways. At the moment the mushroom end part of the cog is pointing towards the inner cylinder head position with the thin shaft of the cog pointed inwards towards the motor. I need to know if this is the correct way round otherwise I have to trip the other side and go through the pain of refitting and bleeding the system again. Hope this helps people to understand what I need here.

Sounds like you've had a bit of a nightmare! You're not the first to try without engaging the service mode first.

It seems many have trouble getting the EPB into service mode, even though it's quite a simple procedure as you have said, so doubt there are any here that have had to have the Piston out of the caliper to see the cog and know which way it goes in.

If the cog is angled, can you not tell by the mating cog (I assume on the motor) as to which way it will engage correctly? Although if you've checked the parking brake is on and working then you should have got it right. You could always take it to a place for a free brake check and they will test the handbrake is applying the correct force.

There is a question you might be able to answer that no one has actually posted experience of yet, and that is, once you have engaged Service mode, and removed the caliper and old pads, will the new pads fit in without the need for a piston tool to further retract the piston? The piston is not threaded so no need to screw it inwards but does it need to be manually pushed in any further in once service mode has been engaged?

What I can tell you know I've worked on the brakes for several hours is that when the brake system is placed into maintenance mode a voltage is applied to the two pin connector on the brake calliper EPB motor which is the noise you hear when applied. Its the motor spinning the screen thread inside the brake cylinder thus allow pressure to be removed from the brake. Although the pressure is removed you still have the brake fluid behind the cylinder that is the driving forced that is applied when you hit the foot brake. The cog as you mentioned goes back to its lowest position (retracked) but the cylinder remains in position albeit with no real pressure behind it. All it requires is a little amount of force to push the cylinder back into the calliper thus allowing you to fit the new shoes.

What you need to remember however is that if when your brake pads had worn more brake fluid had been added to the bottle then when you push the cylinder back into the piston the brake fluid behind the piston is forced back up to the bottle and if it was already to max value then the excess will overflow and as you know brake fluid on paintwork is not good. To avoid this I used a plastic medicine strangle to draw some of the fluid out which I then disposed off.

I'm 99% sure I have the cog in the right direction but I won't be happy until I know for 100% sure. Because nobody has been able to come back and confirm to me it looks like I'm going to have to do the other side tomorrow at which point I'll be able to confirm the cog position. Yes I know it means tripping the already done side again but better to be safe than sorry.

To all of those people thinking of doing the brakes at the rear just get the brake maintenance process right first and the rest of the job is so simple. Oh, once the brake is in the maintenance mode if you are worried about the EPB putting it back on while your working on the brakes removal of the red two pin plug from the EPB unit on the calliper, this will prevent power being re-applied and thus the brake can't come back on while you are working on the car.

For those of you that have the piston come out of the cylinder don't worry. Simply remove the piston, clamp the rubber brake pipe to stop more brake fluid entering the chamber, Remove the black outer seal , clean the excessive brake fluid up, clean the cylinder making sure there's no dirt on it, clean the inner piston, ensure the cog remains on the centre screw shaft, screw the cog down to the lowest position, notice the cag is keyed for the inner cylinder and gently squeeze the piston back into the cylinder. If you get it all right you'll notice the piston goes all the way into the chamber. Once all the brakes have been put back together try EPB first and make sure you put the plug back first if you removed it. Once you are happy the EPB brake works fine you can then perform the brake bleeding using the normal process. Although at first it looks like a nightmare of a job it isn't really and with a bit of patients you'll crack it.

Thanks Les

Glad you are getting on top of it, Looks like we are finally getting enough people to have done it to get the full info. Yet to do mine, but checked I can get it into service mode which worked first time, and had a message on the dash to confirm it.

Useful link for others still unsure.

http://www.evoqueforums.net/forum/evoque...-pics.html